No chocolate bunnies here

Sunday–April 24

Happy Easter!

Got back to base camp and resting for a couple of days. The winds have been high these past few days. They’re enough to slow our progress as noted by the team ahead of us who are making their way to Camp 2.

Our trek through the icefall was arduous taking some 5.5 hours. A careful trek versus a leisurely stroll. All that matters is making it to Camp 1.

There are more details about the winds on the IMG site so make sure to check it out. I think one tent was lost at Camp 2. Fortunately, all the climbers are okay.  More details to follow.

Earthquakes before Base Camp

Sunday–April 17

I spent an additional night in Pheroche just to give my body extra time to beat back this cold.  I think it helped as the congestion is clearing up though I wish at a much faster rate. It’s good to be at Everest Base Camp now; the My Spot Locator shows just how far we’ve come. It also shows how much further we need to go!

Have to tell you that my last night in Pheroche was a little unsettling. I was resting in a building made entirely of stone, and a pretty strong earthquake that you can hear and feel got my attention…..four times! Yes, 4 really good shakes. There aren’t any building codes, by the way. Made me wonder about the ladders and ropes in the icefall in terms of possible rock slides, avalanches or major shifts in the ice.

I missed the Puja (special blessing ceremony), but plan on attending another in a couple of days with other climbers.

The Khumbu Icefall

The icefall is what stands between BC and Camp 1 and will be an extreme test for everyone. I’ll be ready.

Minor setback

Thursday–April 14

I wish someone would invent a cure for the common cold. That’s my setback right now.  Went from our BC (Base Camp) to Mt. Lobuche and worked up to the BC on Lobuche.  Somehow I developed this congestion and all of a sudden a nasty cough followed.  I would’ve summitted Mt. Lobuche, but was concerned about this cough that wouldn’t let up, so I did the smart thing and headed down.  Regrouped at BC and headed down, off the mountain, sort of, (at this point, everthing is on a mountain because of elevation!).

I’m recuperating in the village of Pheroche, probably for the next couple of days. At altitude, your body deteriorates because it takes so much work to recover. Think of all the calories that you need just to maintain body temp. To burn all those calories, you need oxygen and you have to descend to get more of that.

You might feel sad that I didn’t summit Mt. Lobuche, but I didn’t come all this way to do that. I think of these peaks as stepping stones to the biggie. I need to be in shape for Mt. Everest.

Gotta find some chicken soup.

Welcome to Base Camp

Sunday–April 10

Doing well at base camp though I remind myself to take it easy. We can really feel the altitude. From my tent to the dining tent is a 20-foot walk, but that walk requires a rest stop. I’m making sure to listen to my body as acclimatization varies from person to person. The body works to adjust to the environment and in this case, the creation of more red blood cells among other things. This site better explains what happens at altitude.

Speaking of dining, the sherpa cooks are great! Breakfast this morning was boiled eggs, bacon and toast.  Last night we had a decent meal of  buffalo, mixed veggies, boiled potatoes and noodles. How ’bout that?  Not bad at all!?

There’s a lot of  “rumbling” here and it happens day and night, causing rock slides and avalanches. When the sun hits a wall, it starts and continues throughout the night. It’s just once the sun sets, there are fewer rumblings.

The icefalls here are huge and imposing. Icefalls are a part or section of a glacier that moves faster and they create high walls and deep crevasses. Icefalls are technically demanding and dangerous. We leave at 3 am to begin our icefall climb. An early start means that the ice stays frozen solid. The first time through takes some 8-9 hours, again, for further acclimatization. The Khumbu Icefall is at the 18,000 foot level [5,000 meters or so].

I’ll head down to Lobuche village today and climb a peak of the same name.

Lobuche Peak

This is all part of the acclimatization process.  We get to gain some altitude but don’t have to do it through the icefall. Too risky. That peak is at 20,000 feet [6,100 meters].

I’ll be out of touch for a few days, but you can visit the IMG site to check on updates. The link to that site is on the right side under PAGES.

I do check on the markets periodically. Seems to be doing very well despite my absence. Maybe I should climb more! LOL.  When you think about it, to be able to get online, even check e-mails, makes it all pretty amazing for all of us here at Everest base camp. I’m told that Sir Hillary had it pretty well too…he had over 400 Sherpas to assist his effort on this mountain!

Base camp: 2 days away

Thursday–April 7

Made it to Lobuche Village.  One of the most technically demanding peaks is located here, Loboche East. There are several small “summits” en route to this peak as well as, ice slopes and pretty steep sections with deep snow. This mountain stands at 20,075 feet [6,119 meters]. The village is at 16,000 feet [4,877 meters], which is higher than anything in the continental USA. Click on the map and you’ll see the relationship of the peak to the village of the same name. Notice that our base camp is getting closer.

Luboche Village

This place feels remote though during the trekking season, it can get very busy in April-May. Temps this time of year are close to freezing, but during the off season, this place is brutally cold and windy. A few very hardy souls stay here off season for maintenance work. From here, our team will make the 2-day trek to Base Camp at 17,500 feet [5,334 meters].

Cooking with yak dung

Wednesday–April 6

Paid a solemn visit to the Tengboche Monastery.  I understand that it’s the largest Sherpa monastery in the Khumbu region. It’s a beautiful place. You can soak up the tranquility if you pay attention, which feels easy to do in the Himalayas, and this monastery is as good a place as any! The Tibetan monks that reside here carry on a timeless way of life.

The Tengboche Monastery

For all its peacefulness, I cannot picture myself spending my life here as the monks do. You really have to be called in order for your life’s journey to be based here. Inside the monastery, there’s a large Buddha statue , a bakery that has some incredible cake [be good for celebrating our office birthdays!] and plenty of color, mostly a pinkish-red which resembles the robes that are worn. I’m amazed at how things can bake at 12,000 feet [3,658 meters] seeing how the air is thinner.

Made it to Pheroche and you can start to feel the cold. Last night, it was in the 20s.  Inside the teahouse. I’m really feeling that this is more like an Everest expedition.  My water bottle froze overnight. Cooking is done over yak-fueled stoves.  That’s right yak crap. A woman had demonstrated how it’s done in Tengboche: pat some dung flat against the sunny side of a building and in a day or two, when it’s dry, you’ve got fuel.

On the way up here, I stopped at a Llama ["teacher" not the critter] house and received a Puja, a blessing ceremony.  Also was given a kata [white scarf], a prayer scarf. It’s an important greeting in Tibetan custom because the scarf symbolizes  good intentions from the person giving it. Sounds good to me. On this trip, we can all use good intentions and good results.

Walked past some chortens, which is probably the earliest form of Buddhist architecture.  Actually, chorten is the Tibetan term for stupa.  The ones I went past were Everest memorials. Stupa means a pile, as in small stones that are placed on a memorial or tomb to honor the deceased. A chorten is not on anyone’s list.

We’re going to head-up the Khumbu Valley. Base camp is about 5-6 days away. Once there, the real work begins.

Heaven meets earth

Sunday-April 3

En route to Tengboche. The incredible thing is that Mt. Everest is in sight. For so many, it’s the one place where heaven meets earth. Everything about where I am is a Shangri-La. There’s just miles of incredible beauty and solitude. Is it possible to overload on this? No 4-lane highways, powerlines, transmitter towers.  Just miles of horizon and terrain that’s both beautiful and dangerous.

This reminds me a little bit of the article I wrote for our spring newsletter, where mountaineering and investment management has a confluence. To do things right, you really need a professional who knows what she/he is doing to guide you. I’m sure others may feel differently, but there’s a logic to that thinking, especially here.

Take a look at where I am with FindeMeSpot.  Everest may appear close…it is closer…but take an even closer look at the terrain.  Still a lot of hiking to be done.  Zoom in and you can actually see that we’re on the Lukla-Everest Base Camp Trekking Route.   I can’t impress upon you the scale of the terrain.  As a team, we’re used to seeing such exotic, often difficult terrain, but still, taking it all in can make you feel small.

 

Bazaar day at Namche Bazar

Saturday-April 2

Today is market day or bazaar day. A lot of local fare to see, but the most interesting “shop” here, to me anyway, is the butcher shop. If you’re looking for clear wrap and white styrofoam trays, this is not the place.

"Was that the prime cut or the loin, sir...?"

Life here is very basic. The locals have survived this way for eons.  You’ll find buffalo, duck, pig and other protein sources that, however odd in our culture, is “just another day” in this part of the world.  Makes one think of just how much the West really has. Life here is not about having “stuff.”

Had an interesting visit to the sherpa museum in town.  I tried carrying a large, wooden water bucket with a strap across my forehead. It appears pretty straightforward, but it is not. I was posing with one of these buckets and I dropped it!  It would’ve been an international incident, but fortunately, Phutashe (our guide) was nearby. Click here to learn more about just how efficient sherpa porters are.  They are truly amazing.

Today we’re off to Tengboche, which is noted for its Buddhist monastery and incredible views of mountain peaks, including Mt. Everest. Click here and you’ll get a better idea of just how special this place is. This is the kind of place where so many things hit your senses all at once: the sounds, the visual reality, the smells….everything. Stay tuned. Our journey is just getting started and there’s more to come…

I’m over here…

Friday–April 1

Felt good today. Completed an acclimitization hike to the Everest View Hotel, which according to the Guiness Book of Records is the world’s highest hotel.

World's Highest Hotel

Namche Bazar is an actual working town, but better known to the West as a stop en route to Sagarmatha (Nepalese for Mt. Everest, meaning Higher than the Sky. In Sherpa, the mountain is known as Chhomolungma, meaning Mother Goddess of Earth).  Pretty nice town; Google it for info and images.

Tomorrow, Saturday, we’ll be staying at the Khumbu Lodge Teahouse. Quaint place. This part of the Himalayas has the world’s ten highest mountains. The Khumbu region is within the Sagarmatha National Park, which like our national parks, is a protected region. It’s a spectacular place.

If you want to know where we are in relation to the mountain, click here and it’ll open a window courtesy of  Find Me Spot, the satellite locator service. Now to find Everest, you can zoom in a bit and find these reference points:

• To the north of  Namche Bazar is Mt. Kumbila
• Head east and look for Taboche then continue east to Chukhung
• At the base of Chukhung are three glaciers or gorges running north-south.  Follow the one to the right in a north/northeast direction until you see Sagarmatha.  That’s our destination.

If you zoom the map closer, and click on the tab “Terrain” the view converts to a topographic map complete with contours and elevation.  Look for the 8850 contour line because that’s the highest point on mother earth. That’s 29,035 feet above sea level. Anyway, we’re here for about three days. So far, so good.

Acclimation for high altitude

Wednesday–March 30

Okay. We’re gearing up for a hike, one that will help our bodies acclimate to the thinner air that comes with high-altitude mountaineering.  In a nutshell,  acclimatization is the body’s way of adjusting to the decreased amount of oxygen.  The process can take days.

Age, overall physical condition, mental preparedness and other factors contribute (or hinder) one’s ability to adjust. I’m told if you’re born and live at a high altitude that this helps. There’s a good reason why these Sherpas do so well in this environment: their bodies have been here since day one!

A few things I’ve learned in doing these adventures is that you must stay hydrated and avoid overexertion.  You need to take your time and to be well aware of high-altitude symptoms, such as headaches, dizziness, fatigue, decreased appetite, nausea among others.  Some climbers can experience a few, others more.  Like many activities, mountaineering has a bunch of sayings and truisms.  One that comes to mind right now is climb high, sleep low.  If for example you happen to reach, say, 7,500 feet, then climb down to sleep at 7,000 feet or lower.

If you need more detailed information, click here and read up on the range of high-altitude concerns and ailments that can make or break these excursions. More to come….